dispatch from the northern 1

14 hours of travel, and! I am here in Alaska, and, true to summer form, it is chilly and the sun don't set (more or less). Frankly, I don't quite understand how they do it here in the winter--it's August, and last night I slept under one sheet, one down blanket, one quilt, and two wool blankets (and was wearing two shirts, a hoodie, and a down vest). But it might be worth a trip to find out--B tells me the 30-below, outdoor parties are somehow wonderful. Anyway, the trees here are pointy, the squirrels small, the water conserved, and the dogs snuggly. B/c of permafrost, underground water pipes, tanks, and septic tanks are not possible, at least out here in the woods. So, J&B have enormous water tanks inside their house (in the room that is currently serving as kitchen, living room and dining room, pending some remodeling). They pay by the gallon to get the tanks filled, so there is not a huge amount of flushing going on. Water pressure is provided by a balloon inside their (also in-house) water pump. Alaska is curiously reminiscent of West Africa in that it is not the buildings (at least, beauty-wise--mechanics-wise they are fascinating) but the people and the environment that attract. The DIY culture is palpable. J&B are electrifying, insulating, and dry-walling approximately one-third of their house all by themselves. Also, the squirrels do shrooms--I haven't seen that yet, but I'm told it's pretty easy to tell the difference between a tripping squirrel and a nontripping squirrel.

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