A friend of a friend recently asked me for advice about making plans to visit Burkina Faso. This has happened a few times in the past, so I thought I would just post it here so that I don't have to write it out again each time. Suggestions/additions/corrections are welcome. I recommend reading the comments to view them.
1. Visa: definitely get it before you go. The airports are basically excuses for them to extort money out of you (i've heard awful stories of people's luggage getting intentionally held up to get a bribe, although, to be fair, these examples were all in Ghana). Also, the BF airport entrance procedure is insane--no lines, just a mob of people shoving their passports at the passport people. You'll be in there forever anyway, so you might as well not prolong it by standing in a visa line too. If you live in New York, you can get your visa at the BF or Ghana Permanent Mission, but call the BF Embassy in Washington DC to get that address, because the one available on the web is wrong (as is the phone number). Getting the visa doesn't take long (a few days) but it can be annoying (having the right info, etc., especially for the Ghanaian visa), so I'd take care of it ASAP. You have to leave your passport with them. Alternatively, you can do it in DC or by mail to the Embassy in DC. Information about these procedures is on their websites. If you have questions, I highly recommend calling them b/c there's no guarantee that their websites are updated regularly.
2. Shots. I go to NYU law school, and the university has its own student health center, which includes a travel nurse who knew what shots to give me and gave them to me. If you don't go to a big university, you can just look on the state department website and it should recommend which shots you should get and then call your doc and ask if you can get them from her or whether she can give you a referral to someone who can do it for you. There are a whole bunch (like 6) and they're very expensive--as much as $500 or so. So be prepared for that. Also, some of the shots can't be given at the same time and the hepatitis one requires two different shots (actually three, but one can be given after you come back), several weeks apart. So get started with this at least two months in advance if you can. The good malaria medicine (no shot, just pills you take), called Malarone, is very expensive (like $4-6 a pill and you have to take it every day you're there, plus a little while before you leave and after you get back). You may be able to get it cheaper from Canada (investigate websites). There's two other kinds--one is Lariam, and it has a lot of psychotic side effects--people have crazy dreams, and it can REALLY mess you up (I know somebody who was hallucinating and had to have someone come pick him up from Thailand). If you have any history of mental illness they're not supposed to prescribe it for you. That said, it's very cheap and lots of people take the chance. It's what they give all the peace corps volunteers (although a lot of them don't like it). If you do get Lariam I recommend that you start taking it for a while before you leave so that if you do have a bad reaction you can know in advance and get a different prescription. There's a third kind, doxycycline, but it's an antibiotic and it's generally not a great idea to be on antibiotics for a long time if you don't have to be, so I avoided it. it can also cause sun sensitivity and yeast infections in women (b/c it kills the good bacteria in your body too). YOu should also bring some immodium a.d. It doesn't fix your diarrhea, but it will get rid of the symptoms should you have to spend a day on the bus at an inopportune time. I think it's recommended, though, that you not take it unless you won't have easy access to a toilet, so that your body has a chance to deal with its problems the normal way. Aspirin/tylenol is also convenient. So is a water bottle (the lighter the better). There's also a drug that begins with C that's an antibiotic that your doc will prescribe for you in case you do get a whopping case of the runs. In Ghana, anyway, you can get this much cheaper there. And you shouldn't take it unless you are really sick--generally considered better to just wait out the diarrhea b/c the drug's a major antibiotic, I think. I wish I could remember its name.
3. Stuff to Bring. Antibacterial moist towelletes/gel is a great thing to bring, b/c often there's no opportunity to wash your hands before you eat or after you pee. Good sunscreen that won't make you break out, if you have a tendency to do that (if you're very fair you might have to wear it daily, so this is something to consider). Definitely bring bug stuff--the Peace Corps volunteers use a brand called "Cutter" in a stick form. Sprays can be good though, b/c you don't get the stuff all over your hands. Bring chacos or other comfortable, not-hot walking shoes. Also some tennis
shoes or somehitng so that if you want to hike or just for whatever reason not get really dusty feet on a particular day, you can. Bring a bandanna for a sweat rag (sounds kind of gross, but very necessary) (also good for tying around your hair on crazy bus trips. I thought having a leatherman knife was pretty handy (but for obvious reasons, don't put it in your carry-on). Don't bring a towel--too bulky for carrying around. Instead, just bring a biggish piece of thin cotton cloth--it will do the basic job of drying you off (you could also just get one there--they're used for everything there, and called "pagnes" in Burkina(panyas). Pagnes turn out to be useful for all sorts of things (covering face from dust, keeping you warm in overly-air-conditioned places--they do exist, table cloths, sheet, etc.). Bring pen, paper (I always had a little notebook to jot things/words/information down), cards, light/small travel games (lots of time on buses). A digital camera and ipod with tough carrying cases that will protect them from dust. Chocolate and other good treats for hungry Volunteers. Bring some kind of light jacket or cardigan b/c it can get cool at night there at some times of the year (and more in BF than in Ghana). Definitely bring lightweight pants--in some areas it's not appropriate for women to be in shorts, and skirts can be a pain b/c you always have to worry about them blowing around and showing your oh-so-shocking legs above the knee (more a concern in BF than in Ghana, although I would still recommend bringing a couple pairs of lightweight pants b/c catcalls are constant). Ditto with tank tops, so bring some t-shirts. Lotion, if your skin tends to be dry. Also don't bring a sleeping bag or a pillow--too much to carry. A watch that's not too flashy with an alarm clock is useful. If you do bring electronics that need to be charged, make sure to get adapters (and if they're small, you have to have a thing that lowers the current, I forget what it's called, AND another thing that changes the plug). Sunglasses/hats are good. A flashlight is useful but batteries are heavy, so you'll have to decide about that. Definitely bring some american cash with you because ATMs are very few and far between. Also some gatorade powder--it's good for rehydration if you get diarrhea, and all that water drinking can get a little boring sometimes.
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9 comments:
bring stuff to read, too. magazines with lots of real content (like the new yorker) are great because they take a while to read, can be easily picked up and put down, and you can leave them there.
also, be aware of what the weight limits on your luggage are. if you can, bring bigger suitcases/backpacks than you need, so that you have someplace to stash the stuff you buy there.
I should also say that I HAD A TERRIFIC TIME visiting both countries, I would definitely go back, and don't be scared off by the diarrhea or other sickness possibilities. I had diarrhea just about every two weeks over the three months I was in West Africa this summer and it didn't really cramp my style (or, rather, I stopped letting it cramp my style).
good call, Stefanie. headlamps! and if you'll be camping, get a very lightweight tent with a rain jacket, easy to set up, and with all screen on the sides and roof, so that you can see the stars (if it's not raining).
I also liked having fruit leather & energy bars (I like the Clif brand) for snacks on buses--you can often, but not always, get snacks on the side of the road but not always want you want.
What to do if you get malaria;
I was tol before I went to Ghana (by a UN nurse, no less) that if, while you're in malarial area, you get symptoms that are like flu, you should assume the worst and start taking anti-malaria medecine. Im told that malaron, the anti-malaria prophylaxis will do the job if you take something like three a day, but Coartem is cheaper, and was really effective for me. Sortd me out in about days, with a little help from coke containing a pinh of salt.
Food;
Lots of people will tell you not to eat foo from the street, but I would say that that's the best. Obviously stick to stuff that's piping hot, and steer clear of salads and that kind of thing. Anne has a very good article about that kind of thing.
Travel Guides for Ghana;
Don't trust them too much, but if you're going to, put your faith in the Bradt(sp?) travel guie. I didn't. Stupid me.
I can't speak for Burkina Faso, or most of Ghana either, but you can get pretty much anything you need in Accra, though you might have to settle for a cheap Russian spin off of your desired product.
Right. The article: http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/02/01/dining/01ghana.html
The antidiarrhea medicine that I couldn't remember the name of that starts with C is Cipro (Mom knows).
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Anne, I think the anti-biotic you took to Africa r/t diarrhea was Cipro - yes?
the only comment i have is that everyone reading this should disregard the above comments of one timo ten feld. he will only lead you astray.
zach
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